The Rise of Modernism and the Advent of Art Deco

The introduction of machinery in many European industries during the 19th and early 20th centuries brought about a remarkable leap in productivity. This technological revolution also profoundly influenced the arts, giving rise to the philosophy of “Modernism.” Within this movement, “Art Deco” emerged as a design style that celebrated mass production and accessibility, distinguishing itself from the intricate craftsmanship of the Art Nouveau and Edwardian eras.

Art Deco: Minimalism and Sophistication

Unlike earlier styles, Art Deco jewelry prioritized simplicity, geometric patterns, and streamlined designs. These elements made it easier to produce jewelry using machines, which in turn lowered costs and increased accessibility. This democratization of jewelry allowed Art Deco to thrive, even during economic downturns.

Art Deco pieces often featured bold, contrasting colors, achieved by pairing vivid gemstones with materials like onyx and lacquer. Platinum and white gold became popular choices for their ability to enhance these contrasts and lend a modern, polished appearance to the designs.

<J. Fouquet Cuff -Cufflink, 1920>

Iconic Art Deco Features

One quintessential example of Art Deco jewelry is a cuff bracelet created by J. Fouquet. The piece exemplifies the era’s trends, with small diamonds meticulously set in platinum to create a pristine white background. Bold contrasts were introduced through black lacquer, aquamarines, and yellow gold, resulting in a striking visual effect.

The design’s geometric patterns—straight lines, circles, cylinders, and coils—embodied the modernist ethos of simplicity and functionality. These features not only defined Art Deco jewelry but also influenced subsequent jewelry trends, many of which remain relevant today.

Art Deco bracelets, often worn on the wrist or higher up on the arm in an “Indian style,” were especially popular. These pieces complemented the sensual, sleeveless dresses of the 1920s, adding brilliance and elegance to glamorous evening looks.

<Van Cleef & Arpels, 1922>

The Business Evolution of Jewelry

During the Art Deco period, the jewelry business underwent a significant transformation. Previously, jewelry was crafted on demand, but this era saw the rise of pre-made collections sold directly to consumers. This shift necessitated simpler, more universally appealing designs that could cater to a broader audience.

For instance, Cartier launched its “Trinity” line in 1924, featuring relatively affordable yet elegant designs. This marked the brand’s foray into creating accessible luxury, blending artistry with practicality to meet the changing demands of the market.

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