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Diamond Story 8 – Melee Diamonds: Small yet Versatile in Modern Jewelry Designs

Melee diamonds are referred to as small diamonds under 0.1ct (1/100 carat). Originating from France, the term ‘Melee’ derives from the French word meaning “small brawl” or “mixed.” It originally referred to the mixing of small diamonds of various sizes and shapes, creating a blend of tiny diamond fragments. Sometimes called “sub-diamonds,” the term does not originate from using smaller stones around a central diamond, but rather from the Japanese word ‘つぶ’ (tsubu), meaning bead or granule.

Melee diamonds were traditionally used as accent stones surrounding the main gem, but today, their versatility has made them a focal point in modern jewelry designs. In the past, large diamonds were preferred for their classic appeal, but with the rise of simpler, practical designs and various colored diamonds, Melee diamonds have gained popularity. Sizes range from approximately 0.9mm to 2.7mm, with international standards classifying them based on sieve sizes:

  • Melee: +6½ (1.8mm) to -11 (2.7mm)
  • Star: +2 (1.25mm) to -6½ (1.75mm)
  • -2 (0.9mm to 1.2mm)
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