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Art Nouveau

The Evolution of Jewelry Trends Through Art Movements

Jewelry trends often draw inspiration from prominent figures, whether it’s the brooches worn by presidents or celebrities, or the dazzling designs showcased in movies and dramas. These trends, however, are not fleeting; their origins stretch back centuries and typically evolve in cycles of around a decade, influenced by the artistic movements of their respective eras.

Today, as the vintage revival gains momentum, let’s explore the rich history and timeless designs of jewelry from the past. Western jewelry in the modern era can be divided into four key periods: the Victorian era, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, and Art Deco.

The Victorian Era (1831–1901): A Time of Opulence

The Victorian era, named after Queen Victoria, who reigned over Britain from 1831 to 1901, marked the pinnacle of the British Empire. While Queen Victoria herself championed moral living, the fashion of the time was anything but restrained. Women’s attire was elaborate and ornate, and jewelry designs followed suit.

Diamonds, emeralds, coral, amethysts, garnets, and cameos were popular gemstones of the era. What set Victorian jewelry apart was the intricate craftsmanship of its metallic components. Rather than leaving metal surfaces smooth, they featured detailed carving, milgrain techniques, and other labor-intensive finishes. These decorative touches added to the overall grandeur and uniqueness of each piece.

Art Nouveau (1890–1914): Nature’s Flowing Elegance

The Art Nouveau movement, which means “new art” in French, flourished from 1890 to 1914. It sought to break away from traditional decorative styles by drawing inspiration from nature. Unlike the symmetry and linearity of earlier designs, Art Nouveau celebrated organic curves and fluid lines.

Motifs often included flower stems, buds, grapevines, and the patterns found in insect wings. Sensuous, elongated depictions of women, mermaids, and fairies were common, emphasizing femininity and grace. To capture these intricate details, designers used pearls, opals, moonstones, aquamarines, and tourmalines, creating a palette of soft, iridescent hues.

Techniques such as enamel work added vibrant color and texture to metal surfaces, elevating the artistry of each piece. Japanese art and culture also influenced the movement, introducing a refined elegance and understated beauty that contrasted with traditional European opulence.

Art Nouveau spread across Europe, adapting to the cultural context of each region. This period marked a shift in the perception of jewelry—from mere adornments to valued works of art with profound creative significance.

<Philippe Wolfers 1858-1929>

<Georges Fouquet 1862-1957>

<René Lalique 1860-1945>

Diamond Story 8 – Melee Diamonds: Small yet Versatile in Modern Jewelry Designs

Melee diamonds are referred to as small diamonds under 0.1ct (1/100 carat). Originating from France, the term ‘Melee’ derives from the French word meaning “small brawl” or “mixed.” It originally referred to the mixing of small diamonds of various sizes and shapes, creating a blend of tiny diamond fragments. Sometimes called “sub-diamonds,” the term does not originate from using smaller stones around a central diamond, but rather from the Japanese word ‘つぶ’ (tsubu), meaning bead or granule.

Melee diamonds were traditionally used as accent stones surrounding the main gem, but today, their versatility has made them a focal point in modern jewelry designs. In the past, large diamonds were preferred for their classic appeal, but with the rise of simpler, practical designs and various colored diamonds, Melee diamonds have gained popularity. Sizes range from approximately 0.9mm to 2.7mm, with international standards classifying them based on sieve sizes:

• Melee: +6½ (1.8mm) to -11 (2.7mm)
• Star: +2 (1.25mm) to -6½ (1.75mm)
• -2 (0.9mm to 1.2mm)

Diamond Story 7 – Exploring Fancy Color and Fancy Shape Diamonds

Diamond color is valued more when it is colorless and transparent, but very rarely, diamonds with deep colors, known as ‘Fancy Color Diamonds,’ actually increase in value due to their rarity.

Fancy Color Diamond
Fancy Color Diamonds are formed under extreme heat and pressure deep within the Earth’s mantle, just like colorless diamonds. However, during the crystallization process, minute impurities become part of the chemical formation, creating Fancy Color Diamonds. For example, nitrogen impurities create yellow hues, boron impurities produce blue Fancy Color Diamonds, and large inclusions can lead to black diamonds. These rare natural diamonds come in a spectrum of rainbow colors, including red, pink, orange, blue, green, purple, yellow, brown, gray, and black. According to GIA (Gemological Institute of America), Fancy Color Diamonds are formed at a rate of 1 in 10,000. Among these, red is the rarest, while yellow remains the most popular and widely appreciated.A 128.45-carat yellow diamond, discovered in the Kimberley Mine in South Africa in 1877. Designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., it is called “Bird on a Rock.”

Fancy Shape Diamond
While Round Brilliant Cut is the most common diamond shape, Fancy Shape Diamonds offer unique brilliance and individuality. Fancy Shape includes cuts like Pear, Princess, Cushion, and more, each offering distinct styles and personalities. These cuts provide a balance of weight and reasonable pricing, along with distinctive designs that are gaining popularity among diamond enthusiasts.

Diamond Story 6 – Understanding Diamond Color: The Importance of Color in Evaluating Value

In this column, we will delve into Color (color) alongside Cut (cut) as one of the most important aspects when evaluating diamonds. Even if a diamond is perfectly cut, the presence of color can reduce its brilliance and light dispersion.

Color (Color)
The clearer and more colorless a diamond, the higher its value. Diamonds are categorized into color grades based on their lack of color.

Diamond color refers to the natural tint present in the stone. While most diamonds naturally have slight yellow undertones, the closer a diamond is to being colorless, the more valuable it becomes.

To assess diamond color, GIA (Gemological Institute of America) uses a grading system that compares each diamond to a master stone for evaluation. The grades range from Colorless (D, E, F) to Near Colorless (G, H, I), Faint Yellow (J, K, L, M), Very Light Yellow (N, O, P, Q, R), and Light Yellow (S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z). D-grade diamonds are the highest, while Z represents the lowest grade. Diamonds graded D, E, F, and G are often grouped together as Collection colors due to their rarity.

Diamonds with colors deeper than “Z” fall into the Fancy Collection, which includes colors like intense yellow, brown, gray, orange, blue, green, pink, and red. Among these, rare fancy-colored diamonds like blue, pink, and red are highly sought after and hold exceptional value. Generally, diamonds with minimal color, closest to colorless, hold the highest value.

Because the difference in color between diamonds is subtle, it can be difficult for the average consumer to distinguish them. Additionally, grading can vary slightly between gemological institutions, making it essential to rely on a trusted gemologist for accurate evaluation.