JANUARY 2025
: GET A $300 LUXURY JEWELERY GIFT with Your Engagement Ring
Widget Image
WHAT'S NEW

mobile logo

Whole Post

Home  |  Whole Post (Page 3)

By
Blog
0 Comments

Jewelry in the 1940s: War and Resource Scarcity

During the difficult 1940s, the materials available for jewelry were severely limited due to the war. Precious metals like gold were scarce, and platinum was extremely rare, making it nearly impossible to obtain. As a result, rose gold and ruby became widely used, along with semi-precious stones like sapphires, citrines, aquamarines, amethysts, and moonstones.

The design of this era embraced both natural and non-natural motifs, focusing on the quality of gemstones, their settings, and cutting styles. Fashion trends also shifted toward practicality, and jewelry that could complement drab clothing with a touch of brightness became highly desirable. Consequently, the demand for costume jewelry and antique pieces grew, and the “cocktail jewelry” trend emerged, with existing jewels being reworked into new designs.

The Shift of the Jewelry Industry to the U.S.

As many European jewelry manufacturing factories shifted to producing weapons during the war, skilled jewelers fled to the U.S., establishing a new center for the jewelry industry. Fashion during this period favored casual yet urban sophistication, and costume jewelry made from affordable materials was used to create diverse, vibrant cocktail jewelry with unique and creative expressions.

Surrealism, which had emerged in the 1930s as an alternative to Modernism, influenced jewelry design, and its motifs became prominent in this era. More than the market value of materials, the craftsmanship and artistry of the designer were highly valued.

Iconic Jewelry from the 1940s

Salvador Dalí, known for his surrealist artistry, designed two striking brooches during this time:

<A lips brooch crafted in 18k gold, adorned with rubies and pearls>

<A heart brooch made from rubies, diamonds, and gold>

Costume Jewelry and Alternative Materials

During the war, the scarcity of precious metals led to the popularity of costume jewelry made from sterling silver, which was allowed due to its affordability. Sterling silver is an alloy consisting of 92.5% silver and around 7.5% copper or other metals, and it is still widely used in jewelry today.

Additionally, vermeil, which is gold-plated sterling silver, became a popular choice for designers seeking to create pieces that mimicked the appearance of gold.

<The vermeil brooch, with its green cabochon and small gemstones, is a representative piece from the 1940s>

By
Blog
0 Comments

The Impact of the Great Depression and Hollywood Glamour

The Great Depression caused a significant decline in the wealthy consumer base in the U.S., which severely affected the luxury goods industry. During this challenging period, the film industry played a key role in satisfying the public’s yearning for glamour. As a result, brands that had once dominated the luxury market began to make room for Hollywood actresses, who became style icons of the era.

The fashion of this time emphasized a fuller feminine silhouette and highlighted the curves of the body through sculptural tailoring. A popular trend was the “white-on-white” style, where luxurious items were often set with diamonds in white gold or platinum. More affordable versions used imitation white gold. This trend naturally complemented the black-and-white films of the era, where brilliant jewelry truly stood out against the monochrome background.

For instance, actress Irene Dunne’s white fur coat paired with diamonds and feather motifs became iconic, especially in black-and-white films around 1935.

The Influence of the Film Industry on Jewelry Design

The power of Hollywood influenced not only the role of jewelry designers but also the image of jewelry itself, transforming it into an advertising medium. Chanel, for example, began producing pieces that focused on the value of gemstones, reigniting the trend for luxurious jewelry. On the other hand, De Beers, with its more mass-market approach, famously launched the “A Diamond is Forever” campaign, which successfully positioned diamonds as a symbol of love. This marketing campaign helped establish the enduring value of diamonds in modern society.

The Mid-1930s: Transformable Jewelry

The image below features a piece of silver, platinum, and diamond jewelry created by M. Dusausoy. The design exclusively uses white tones, creating a bold and striking appearance. Notably, this piece is an example of transformable jewelry, a popular trend in the mid-1930s. The piece can be reconfigured into 28 different designs by combining four basic elements.

By
Blog
0 Comments

The Rise of Modernism and the Advent of Art Deco

The introduction of machinery in many European industries during the 19th and early 20th centuries brought about a remarkable leap in productivity. This technological revolution also profoundly influenced the arts, giving rise to the philosophy of “Modernism.” Within this movement, “Art Deco” emerged as a design style that celebrated mass production and accessibility, distinguishing itself from the intricate craftsmanship of the Art Nouveau and Edwardian eras.

Art Deco: Minimalism and Sophistication

Unlike earlier styles, Art Deco jewelry prioritized simplicity, geometric patterns, and streamlined designs. These elements made it easier to produce jewelry using machines, which in turn lowered costs and increased accessibility. This democratization of jewelry allowed Art Deco to thrive, even during economic downturns.

Art Deco pieces often featured bold, contrasting colors, achieved by pairing vivid gemstones with materials like onyx and lacquer. Platinum and white gold became popular choices for their ability to enhance these contrasts and lend a modern, polished appearance to the designs.


<J. Fouquet Cuff -Cufflink, 1920>

Iconic Art Deco Features

One quintessential example of Art Deco jewelry is a cuff bracelet created by J. Fouquet. The piece exemplifies the era’s trends, with small diamonds meticulously set in platinum to create a pristine white background. Bold contrasts were introduced through black lacquer, aquamarines, and yellow gold, resulting in a striking visual effect.

The design’s geometric patterns—straight lines, circles, cylinders, and coils—embodied the modernist ethos of simplicity and functionality. These features not only defined Art Deco jewelry but also influenced subsequent jewelry trends, many of which remain relevant today.

Art Deco bracelets, often worn on the wrist or higher up on the arm in an “Indian style,” were especially popular. These pieces complemented the sensual, sleeveless dresses of the 1920s, adding brilliance and elegance to glamorous evening looks.


<Van Cleef & Arpels, 1922>

The Business Evolution of Jewelry

During the Art Deco period, the jewelry business underwent a significant transformation. Previously, jewelry was crafted on demand, but this era saw the rise of pre-made collections sold directly to consumers. This shift necessitated simpler, more universally appealing designs that could cater to a broader audience.

For instance, Cartier launched its “Trinity” line in 1924, featuring relatively affordable yet elegant designs. This marked the brand’s foray into creating accessible luxury, blending artistry with practicality to meet the changing demands of the market.

[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

By
Blog
0 Comments

The Transition to Edwardian Elegance

The vibrant use of colors, diverse materials, and intricate motifs in jewelry design during the Art Nouveau period laid the foundation for the refined aesthetic of the 20th century. This seamless transition led to the Edwardian era, which celebrated sophistication and understated luxury.

The Edwardian period was marked by significant industrial and scientific advancements, coupled with the prosperity brought by international trade. This economic wealth fueled the growth of the jewelry industry, with gemstones playing a central role. Bourgeoisie, royals, and aristocrats used jewelry as a symbol of status and wealth, and the designs of this era reflected their desire for opulence.

The development of machine technology enabled the processing of platinum, a strong yet lightweight metal. This advancement allowed for intricate settings that showcased diamonds and gemstones while complementing the feminine elegance of lace dresses and plunging necklines. Popular designs included chokers, pendants, and motifs inspired by Rococo revival, such as ribbons, floral garlands, stars, and tiaras. Diamonds were often paired with pearls, and the milgrain setting technique added a delicate yet decorative touch. Jewelry from this period continues to be celebrated for its exceptional craftsmanship and quality.

Cartier: A Legacy of Craftsmanship
Founded by Louis-François Cartier, Cartier began as a Parisian jewelry workshop before gaining global recognition as a purveyor of exquisite luxury. Cartier became the official jeweler for British King Edward VII and other aristocrats, setting the standard for exceptional craftsmanship and innovative design.

Cartier pioneered the use of platinum, a metal both harder and lighter than gold, and developed techniques such as invisible settings to create refined and intricate pieces. In 1898, Louis Cartier popularized the platinum wedding band after crafting one for his wife, further cementing Cartier’s reputation as a royal jeweler. This legacy earned Cartier the title of “Jeweler to Kings.”

Fabergé: The Russian Master
Carl Fabergé, a renowned Russian jeweler, gained international fame for his intricate egg-shaped creations, famously known as the Fabergé eggs. These masterpieces, adorned with gemstones and enamel, were commissioned by the Russian royal family as Easter gifts.

Fabergé revolutionized traditional designs by combining hand-applied enamel techniques with guilloché, a machine-assisted engraving method. He worked with a variety of materials, including gold, silver, jade, lapis lazuli, and malachite, to create fantastical and avant-garde pieces. Fabergé’s egg designs became a symbol of Russian luxury and craftsmanship, reaching their artistic zenith under his meticulous attention to detail.

Accessories of the Era: A Flourish of Grandeur
During the Edwardian era, women’s hairstyles were elaborate, often requiring maids to adjust and maintain them throughout the day. Accessories such as feather ornaments by Cartier, Tiffany’s peacock feather designs, and headbands adorned with opals and cameos reflected the importance of sophistication and extravagance.

Although tiaras and hatpins were not exclusive to royalty, they became symbols of status. Many of these accessories featured emeralds and diamonds, showcasing unparalleled craftsmanship while emphasizing the wearer’s social standing.


<Lilies of the Valley Egg, 1898, Peter-Carl-Faberge>


<Evalyn Mclean wears the famous blue diamond Hope, Cartier 1910>